November proved to be unusually dry this year, with far less rainfall (22mm in total) than is typically expected. As a result, the landscape remained largely golden and parched, closely resembling the classic safari aesthetic of the preceding dry-season months.
The Masai Mara in November – photo credit Ann Aveyard
November visitors were treated to what felt like a traditional dry-season safari: clear, bright days, minimal rain, and hardly any other vehicles in the area. This meant exceptional game viewing, with many enjoying near-private sightings and extended time observing lions on a kill or mothers with their cubs.
Photo credit Ann Aveyard
As November progressed, the previously long grasses were grazed down significantly. The plains opened up, with short grass interspersed by thicker tufts forming small “grass islands” across the landscape. Visibility was exceptional, stretching from the Musiara Airstrip across the marshlands and all the way to the windmill at the far edge of the reserve.
Visibility was excellent in November – photo credit Alisa Karstad.
Midway through the month, an explosion of tissue paper flowers (Cycnium tubulosum) occurred, triggered by the 9.5 mm of rain that fell on 14th November. One of the Mara’s most recognisable wildflowers, these slender, hemiparasitic perennials are predominantly white, though they may show subtle pink tones. Their delicate appearance scattered across the grasslands resembles discarded pieces of tissue paper – hence their name.
Tissue paper flowers – photo credit Alisa Karstad
Sunrises in November were nothing short of spectacular, with clear mornings and skies washed in deep orange hues. A particularly striking silhouette is that of the Shepherd’s Tree (Boscia albitrunca), often mistaken for the more commonly illustrated acacias in classic depictions of Masai Mara sunrises.
Sunrise at 06:20 – photo credit Ann Aveyard
This densely branched evergreen produces clusters of small, sweet-scented flowers and provides essential shade during the heat of the day. It serves as a refuge for a wide range of species, from insects sheltering in its bark to nest-building weavers and starlings, to raptors that perch high in its crown. Even leopards make use of the upper branches, often stashing their kills out of reach.
Larger predators are equally drawn to its shade; on occasion, we have found entire lion prides – sometimes numbering up to twenty – draped across one another, resting and sleeping off the remains of a heavy meal.
At the edge of the Musiara Marsh lies an area known internally as “Patrick’s Culvert,” located between Governors’ Camp and Il Moran. The site is named after the late Patrick Beresford, a former workshop manager at Governors’ Camp, who became stuck in the mud here during a particularly wet season. Much effort was required to recover his vehicle, and Patrick later installed the culvert to avoid a repeat incident – and the name endured.
This area contains approximately 50 remaining elephant pepper trees (Warburgia ugandensis), thinly spaced and extending into the heart of the Marsh. Once a dense stretch of forest, the area has gradually opened up over the years as trees have fallen one by one. The water table here sits very close to the surface, and the groundwater is highly saline, slowly hollowing the trees from the inside. During strong winds, these weaker trees are blown over – or easily pushed over by elephants, who love the fruit which has a fiery, peppery flavour.
Around fifty elephant pepper trees remain here – photo credit Ann Aveyard.
Elephants push against the trees to shake the fruit – photo credit Ann Aveyard.
On 12th November, we enjoyed an excellent sighting of one of the Mara’s most iconic bull elephants, Fred, near the Musiara Gate. Once known for crop-raiding, Fred now spends most of his time peacefully grazing within wildlife-designated areas across his home range in the Mara North Conservancy. Estimated to be in his late 40s and weighing around six tonnes, Fred was first collared by the Mara Elephant Project (MEP) during the 2012–2013 poaching crisis to aid in monitoring and protection efforts.
Fred is a collared elephant – photo credit Alisa Karstad.
His movement data has since revealed a vital corridor linking Mara North and the Mara Triangle, information now used by the Kenya Wildlife Service and county authorities for regional planning, wildlife corridor protection, and habitat connectivity. MEP works every day to ensure elephants like Fred can roam safely and pave the way for the next generation of giants across the Mara landscape.
There are plenty of elephant calves within the breeding herds that visit the Musiara Marsh each day. While their mothers feed, knee-deep in the pools, the youngsters spent hours playing together – tumbling, bumping into one another, mock-charging, and trunk-wrestling. These playful interactions are essential for developing their social bonds and skills.
Baby elephants – photo credit Ann Aveyard
As water levels in the Mara River continued to drop, most hippos tolerated increasingly crowded pods. However, solitary individuals – often displaced males – were occasionally seen crossing the open plains in search of alternative water sources or the well-known hippo pool, where the depth and steep banks provide greater protection from predators.
A hippo at Paradise Plains – photo credit Ann Aveyard
When lone hippos venture away from water with no immediate refuge, it becomes a risky game of running the gauntlet. These exposed individuals are often targeted by the young males of the “Topi Boys” coalition, who coordinate highly strategic attacks.
Along the banks of the Mara River, we recorded several black rhino sightings in November. With the river running low, rhinos frequently cross from the Mara Triangle into the Reserve, and some individuals cross back again and head as far south as the Serengeti. It is estimated that only around 35 to 50 black rhinos roam through the Mara ecosystem at any given time, making these moments particularly special.
A black rhino seen at Paradise Plains – photo credit Ann Aveyard
The Marsh Pride females have entered a new phase of mating with the resident males in the territory. Throughout November, Lola spent extended periods with Topi male Otipo, and we are hopeful that she may be the next female to produce a litter of cubs. Mating periods are typically intense, with heightened activity and shifting dynamics, as pairs mate every 15 to 30 minutes over four to five days.
The youngest female in the pride, Nusurika, has changed significantly over the past few months, having filled out from her sub-adult deposition to an adult lioness. She now knows her place within the pride hierarchy and has become more confident as she realises her worth to the dominant males.
Nusurika – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Lola with daughter, Nusurika, following – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Perhaps the most significant development in November was Kaelo’s introduction of her two young cubs to the dominant males of the area – the Topi Boys coalition. For the most part, these early interactions have been calm and measured, with Kaelo and the cubs observed on several occasions resting peacefully among the males at Bila Shaka.
However, on 22nd November, tensions briefly surfaced. Drawn by hunger, Kaleo approached a buffalo carcass where three of the males were present – Kiongozi, Nzuri, and Otipo. As Kaleo encouraged her cubs to join in the feed, Kiongozi approached them, prompting an immediate defensive response from her. A short but intense confrontation followed, during which the cubs – still tiny at this stage – were scattered in the commotion. The situation was quickly diffused when Otipo intervened, breaking up the scuffle and preventing any harm to the cubs.
Kaleo’s cubs are both male – photo credit Ann Aveyard.
Around the middle of the month, Kaleo relocated her cubs to the windmill area at the far edge of the Marsh territory. We spent an early evening with them at this new site, where they lay concealed in long grasses along the edge of a lugga (dry riverbed). A small rocky outcrop within the lugga offered a secure hiding place for the cubs while Kaelo was hunting.
Kaleo and cubs – photo credit Alisa Karstad
It wasn’t long before Kito, Lola, and Enkerai had joined Kaelo and her cubs at this new location, where they took advantage of the many zebras moving down from Mara North, lying in wait within the long grass. In this area, spotting lions is exceptionally difficult – the grass is so tall that sightings are often limited to a flicker of a tail or a quick raise of a head.
Kito is the oldest member of the Marsh Pride – photo credit Alisa Karstad
Kito, Lola and Enkerai lie in wait for zebras – photo credit Alisa Karstad
On the 4th of November, we had a magical sighting of three Marsh Pride females being followed by 6/7 males from the Topi Boys as they crossed the plains. Watch video
In just one year, this group of seven young rookies – once dispersing sub-adults roaming between the Topi Plains and the Marsh territory – has risen to prominence as one of the Masai Mara’s most significant male coalitions. Born on the Topi Plains, they gradually found the confidence to push deeper into the Marsh, testing boundaries and asserting their presence.
Ukingo, Djodjo and Moja Moja – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Their transformation over the past year has been nothing short of remarkable. Once lean and nomadic, these males have matured into powerful, imposing lions. It has now been a whole year since their bold incursion into the Marsh territory in December, when they famously displaced the previous dominant males, the Bila Shaka coalition, and quickly established themselves as the new rulers of the Marsh Pride.
The topi Boys being led by Moja Moja – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Kiongozi, Ukingo and Otipo – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Ukingo and Kingozi – photo credit Ann Aveyard
As a larger-than-usual coalition, internal disagreements over meals and mating rights do arise, but these are typically brief and quickly resolved. Semi-estranged male, Vuli – often the focus of such tensions – has been dividing his time between the Marsh territory and Paradise Plains. He is gradually becoming more accepted by the others, and as a result, sightings of all seven males together are becoming increasingly likely.
On 15th November, Moja Moja brought down a smaller buffalo, giving him first access to the kill while the others waited nearby. The carcass was insufficient to sustain the entire coalition, and rather than competing, the remaining males lay beside him, eyes closed, seemingly content enough to inhale the scent of fresh meat.
Moja Moja – photo credit Ann Aveyard
The others wait while Moja Moja feeds – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Spotting a leopard is always thrilling – but witnessing one actively stalking its prey is something truly special. As one of the most elusive animals to encounter on safari, it is quite a rarity to see a leopard in full stalk mode, even more so to capture it on film.
Leopard – a masterclass in stealth – photo credit Ann Aveyard
On 18th November, we were fortunate to encounter one of the Mara’s most well-known leopards, a female named Bella 2, as she crept low through the grass, her belly pressed flat against the ground. Completely focused, she moved with quiet determination, intent on catching an African hare that repeatedly slipped just out of sight. Watch the video.
Bella2 stalks her prey – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Bella2 is one of the most sought-after leopards in the Mara, descended from the celebrated “Bella dynasty.” Her great-grandmother, Bella, was prominently featured in the BBC’s Big Cat Diary series, filmed by Jonathan and Angela Scott during their time based at Governors’ Camp. The original Bella was followed by Olive, then Bahati, and now Bella2 – who continues this remarkable lineage as she raises her two cubs, now almost a year old.
Bella2 – photo credit Ann Aveyard
We had great sightings of a beautiful, young male cheetah named Sanare, who likely originated in the Serengeti but was first spotted in the Mara Triangle in 2004. As with most cheetahs, he had chosen a prime vantage point atop a termite mound near the Ol Kiombo Airstrip, and it was there that we left him as the sun began to set. Thanks to Cheetah Enthusiast for the ID.
Sanare – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Another cheetah sighting of note was the male called Ruka, who had just finished feeding and moved away from his kill, into the shade. A large group of vultures quickly descended, but after about ten minutes, they suddenly took flight. Turning to see what had startled them, we spotted a lone lioness charging in. She immediately seized the carcass and carried it off with ease.
Ruka with his impala kill – photo credit Ann Aveyard
A lioness takes off with Ruka’s kill – photo credit Ann Aveyard
November in the Masai Mara is typically synonymous with the onset of the vuli (Short Rains), a time when the plains usually erupt into a carpet of emerald green. This year, however, the skies remained largely clear, extending the golden hues of the dry season well past their usual timeline.
A lilac-breasted roller against a dry Mara backdrop – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Driven by ancient instinct, the “Great Migration of the Skies” arrived right on schedule. While the landscape remained dry, the arrival of Palearctic migrants provided a spectacular influx of life, converging with resident species that had gathered around the permanent waters of the Musiara Marsh and the Mara River to wait out the dry spell.
Endangered Steppe eagles arrived in good numbers, having flown over 10,000 kilometres from the Russian steppes. Usually, they time their arrival to coincide with the termite eruptions in Sub-Saharan Africa, which are triggered by rain, but with the dry conditions this year, you are more likely to see them scavenging alongside vultures or hunting on the ground.
The steppe eagle is a large bird of prey – photo credit Ann Aveyard
The Tawny Eagle, a permanent resident, offers a stark contrast to the visiting Steppe. Known as the “pirate of the plains,” these raptors are masters of opportunism – a vital trait in drier months. November is a critical time for them, as many pairs are raising chicks regardless of the weather.
Their nesting habits reveal a dark evolutionary twist known as “cainism,” where the older chick almost invariably eliminates the younger sibling. This grim strategy ensures that the survivor receives 100% of the food, a harsh but effective adaptation that guarantees the continuation of the lineage even when resources are scarce.
Tawnys are among Africa’s most widespread eagles – photo credit Ann Aveyard.
Meanwhile, Martial Eagles reign supreme as the apex predator of the Mara’s skies, and the drier grass this November has likely played to their advantage. With a wingspan reaching 8.5 feet and eyesight three times sharper than a human’s, they rely on spotting prey from vast heights.
Mature martials have piercing yellow eyes – photo credit Ann Aveyard
The lack of tall, lush vegetation makes it harder for their targets – specifically vulnerable fawns of gazelles and impalas – to hide. If you happen to see one during your safari with us, count yourself lucky; these birds breed slowly and require vast territories, making them a rare and treasured sighting as they patrol the open plains.
A martial with the remnants of a monitor lizard – photo credit Ann Aveyard
The Black-chested Snake Eagle is an excellent indicator of the ecosystem’s health. You can identify this bird by its distinct hunting behaviour; it is the only large raptor that hunts by hovering in place like a kestrel, using the wind to scan for movement below.
As their name suggests, they are snake specialists, equipped with thick scales on their legs to protect against venomous bites. In a spectacular display of skill, they are often seen swallowing their prey mid-flight to avoid having it stolen by other raptors on the ground.
A black-chested snake eagle – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters add a splash of colour to the riverine forests, which remain an oasis during dry spells. While their European cousins are just arriving in the Mara, these residents are typically busy excavating nesting tunnels in vertical earthy banks.
A cinnamon-chested bee-eater – photo credit Ann Aveyard
Watch for them perched on low branches engaging in their “bee-rubbing” ritual: after catching a bee, they violently strike it against the branch to discharge the venom and remove the stinger, turning a dangerous insect into a safe meal.
The yellow-billed stork has undergone a dramatic makeover, signalling that its internal breeding clocks are ticking even when water levels are lower than usual. These birds experience a “breeding flush,” during which their white plumage turns a soft pink and their bills deepen to a rich gold. With smaller pools still dry, look for them concentrating along marsh edges. They hunt by touch rather than sight, snapping their bills shut in just 25 milliseconds when prey brushes against them – one of the fastest reflexes in the animal kingdom.
Yellow-billed storks at the airstrip culvert pond – photo credit Alisa Karstad
The waders, specifically sandpipers and snipes, have been forced to congregate in higher densities along the remaining water at the Musiara Marsh, making for excellent viewing.
Marsh sandpipers breed on the Russian steppe – photo credit Alisa Karstad
For us, this unusual November serves as a reminder of nature’s resilience. Even without the green flush of the rains, the Mara functions as a critical wintering “lifeboat” for global migrants and a stronghold for African residents. So, on your next game drive, remember to look up – you are witnessing one of the world’s great avian events, playing out against the golden backdrop of a waiting savannah.
By Jess Savage and Alisa Karstad with imagery contributed by Ann Aveyard Photography. If you’d like to find out more about a safari in November, please visit the link below.
A SAFARI IN NOVEMBER
