August this year was as remarkable as any other month in the Masai Mara. As a year-round wildlife destination that keeps giving, it’s no surprise that we welcome many repeat guests who love the stunning scenery and unparalleled game viewing.
The seemingly endless plains are interspersed with the odd Boscia angustifolia and Balanites aegyptiaca, often confused with lone acacias in a typical sunrise or sunset impression of the Mara landscape. The Boscia is an essential multipurpose tree with an extensive natural range of uses across much of Africa. It is highly valued for its traditional medicinal properties and edible fruits, bark, and seeds.
Sunset over Paradise Plains and a Boscia in silhouette – photo credit Dan Palmer
White tissue paper flowers (Cycnium tubulosum) are hidden deep amongst the roots of the shorter grasslands, all five lobes supporting droplets of dew in the early mornings. A perennial that pops up when the conditions are right (usually after some rain), the flowers are a seasonal sight across the Masai Mara and baboons love them.
A dominant male olive baboon – photo credit Sam Whitton
Rainfall was almost triple for August this year compared to last year. In total, 84mm was received, keeping grasses green at their base and many grazers around.
Mornings were chilly and averaged out at around 13°C. A sharp cross-wind whips up around the vehicle as you depart camp at 06:30, hoping to find the Marsh Pride of Lions with a kill. Fast forward to 10:00, and clear blue skies reached from one horizon to the other. Days were hot (around 25°C); by afternoon, detached cumulous clouds with their flat bases had settled above, providing some much-needed shade.
Sunrises occurred at approximately 06:38; if you can leave camp just before the sun creeps above the horizon, you might find some nocturnal species making their way home. Hyenas with bloodied faces can be seen trotting hastily back towards their den, while lions are still active and often found gathered around their nighttime kill. The sun set behind the escarpment at about 18:45 each day, an unforgettable moment to soak up your beautiful surroundings.
An August sunrise – photo credit Sam Whitton
Male lion Kiok at sunset – photo credit Sam Whitton
Anti-crepuscular rays, or “antisolar rays” as they are more commonly known, appear to converge towards the antisolar point of the setting sun on some evenings. These rays are a fascinating meteorological optical phenomenon of shadows cast by clouds through atmospheric haze. If you happen to witness anti-crepuscular and crepuscular rays on the same occasion, count yourself lucky, as this is extremely rare.
Anti-crepuscular rays in the Mara – photo credit Dan Palmer
The massive herd of resident buffaloes continued to move east during August, with their wattled starlings, ox peckers and cattle egret companions all going along for the ride. They usually frequent the Musiara Marsh and surrounding plains, where water and thick mud are readily available; however, they have grazed this area down and must continue their food search.
By the end of the month, they had settled near the Selenga lugga. The grass is thicker here, and due to the elevated terrain, they have a good view of the Marsh Pride approaching from the Bila Shaka watercourse in the west. A poll shared amongst our Mara guides estimates that there are around 500 – 600 buffalos in this herd.
Final moments of the day with the resident herd of buffalos – photo credit Alisa Karstad
Topis, zebras, impalas, Grant’s and Thomson’s gazelles are in small clusters around the marsh and north of Bila Shaka.
A male Grant’s gazelle – photo credit Sam Whitton
Many topis have young calves, and male impalas have been sparring as they assert dominance. Male waterbucks, which always look somewhat out of place in a savannah setting, cannot tolerate dehydration; therefore, you are most likely to find them around permanent water sources such as the Mara River or the Musiara Marsh.
Male common waterbucks are 25% larger than the females – photo credit Sam Whitton
The wildebeests did not settle in mega numbers around Musiara in August although we did catch plenty of epic crossings at the usual sites along the Mara River. Instead, sizeable herds were spread across the Talek area and Posse Plains before crossing into the Mara Triangle below the “Lookout” crossing point. During the last few weeks of August, they spent a very short time in the Triangle before exiting to the Serengeti in the southwest.
Wildebeests spread out around the Talek area – photo credit Sam Whitton
Showers in the Masai Mara and then the Serengeti pulled the herds back and forth; their movements are heavily influenced by rainfall. By the end of August, the herds were heading north again, and we started receiving them back through the same area in the southwest, along Mara Engai.
The large herds at Talek – photo credit Sam Whitton
Masai giraffes prefer to traverse the plains during the cooler hours of the early mornings and late afternoons but will retreat to the forest during the day’s heat.
Female Maasai giraffe – photo credit Sam Whitton
With wildebeests absent from the marsh this year, elephants continue to dominate the landscape. They usually take off when the great herds arrive, as the chaos and noise stress them out – wildebeests are very noisy!
Families or “breeding herds” of matriarch females and their young will casually stumble into the wetter parts of the marsh, where the reeds are high and the water line reaches them waist-high. The little ones follow their mothers closely until they realise they are out of depth and stumble back, slipping and sliding as they go. Adolescents do their part and will babysit the youngsters as the mother stocks up on the nutrients of the marsh.
Big bulls keep to themselves, loitering at the edge of the forest which lines the Mara River. They are well used to vehicles observing them, and quite often, they appear to be walking with their eyes closed, their heavy trunk gently swaying along the ground as they pick up the scent of the females.
A large bull beside the entrance to Governors’ Private Camp – photo credit Dan Palmer
This August, we witnessed some pride overlaps as lions test out the “pushback” in other territories.
In the first week of August, tensions were rising for Yaya’s family, who were taking their chances feeding on buffalo on Paradise Plains. With no confirmed territory, this little family of three likes to spend their time between the Musiara Marsh (where they are generally tolerated due to historical ties with the Marsh Pride) and Topi Plains.
Yaya is the littermate of Marsh Pride female, Dada – photo credit Sam Whitton
Another area that they have been frequenting lately is Paradise Plains, home to the Paradise Pride. On the 6th of August, Yaya, Simba, and Pamoja2 were seen tucking into a very fresh buffalo kill out in the open. On the 12th August, females from the Paradise Pride attacked Yaya and Pamoja2, although it was noted by those watching that the Bila Shaka males stepped in and chased the aggressive lionesses off.
Simba with the buffalo kill at Paradise Plains – photo credit Sam Whitton
Yaya and Pamoja2 were left with extensive injuries that required treatment. Those who witnessed the fight managed to call the Kenya Wildlife Service and the Mara Mobile Veterinary Unit, which the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust operates. The vet, Dr Njoroge, who just happened to be in the area attending to another case, attended to Pamoja2 and reported penetrating fight injuries on both flanks, her spinal region and hind limbs. We were happy to hear that her prognosis was “good”.
Pamoja2 after her treatment – photo credit Governors’ Camp
Yaya took off, and although wildlife guides and the Musiara park rangers thoroughly searched daily, it took four days to locate her on Paradise Plains. She was in bad shape and suffering from deep septic wounds along her spine that were infested with maggots; luckily, the SWT were able to get across in time and give Yaya another chance in life. Her prognosis was “guarded”.
Yaya during her treatment – photo credit Governors’ Camp
The Musiara sector warden and his rangers have done a great job of monitoring Yaya, and there has been a ranger stationed nearby at all times. Towards the end of August, Yaya moved out of Paradise Plains and settled in a lugga opposite the Governors’ Private Camp entrance. Disturbance has been kept at an all-time low, and Yaya is slowly regaining her strength.
Yaya is only 12 years old, but it feels as though she has been around forever. She is a “super gran” of sorts, independently raising her two grandchildren to adulthood. Yaya is doing well again, but like a cat that is possibly on her 9th life, we wonder what the future holds for one of the Masai Mara’s most famous lionesses.
Yaya is one of the Masai Mara’s most famous characters – photo credit Sam Whitton
Pamoja2 disappeared for almost a month after her treatment. There were concerns that she had fallen into trouble again with the Paradise Pride, while many hoped she was laying low after her ordeal.
Looking at the tracking data courtesy of Kito’s collar and the Mara Predator Conservation Programe, we can see that the Marsh Pride mostly remained in their core territory of the Musiara Marsh throughout August. This is excellent news, as venturing beyond their protected zone could lead to potential conflicts.
Kito’s tracking data for August – credit Mara Predator Conservation Programe
Kito was collared in March this year – photo credit Dan Palmer
Dada is the daughter of Siena who was severely gored by a buffalo in 2014 – photo credit Sam Whitton
They have continued to take down buffalos from the big herd – this seems to be their favourite meal. On the 30th of August, they were digesting a small dinner near Manager’s Crossing, which appeared to be a topi.
Kito with the remains of a topi – photo credit Dan Palmer
Kaleo has been away from the others as she has three new cubs that are about one month old and sired by the Bila Shaka coalition; we are confident that Kiok is the father. Thank you to the Musiara Rangers, who have kept a watchful eye over the new family and kept any disturbance to an absolute minimum.
Kaleo relaxing with two of her cubs – photo credit Dan Palmer
Some of you will remember that Kaleo had three cubs in November 2023. Kito also had four cubs at the time, and we hoped they would succeed in co-raising the litters. However, heavy rains at the start of the year and infiltrating males are possibly why none of the cubs survived; by the end of February, all seven had gone. Some of our guides also reported seeing a large python in the fallen tree in the middle of the marsh, where the remaining two were last photographed.
Kaleo’s cubs – photo credit Dan Palmer
Kaleo needs to keep them tight and perhaps watch out for Oleku, who has no loyalty to the Bila Shakas. Oleku is going through a challenging time as he is slowly being forced out of the territory, and tensions are high. Additionally, with the recent territorial fights we’ve witnessed, it would be beneficial if the Bila Shaka boys could hang around to protect this new generation for the Marsh Pride.
Oleku – photo credit Sam Whitton
Notable cheetah sightings included Olonyok and Winda from the Mbili Bora coalition. When the wildebeests entered the Reserve, the brothers immediately made the most of the surplus food opportunities. They took time apart in August while Olonyok hung out and even hunted a topi with the female known as Neema, at Ol Kiombo.
Winda upfront and Olonyok behind – photo credit Sam Whitton
Winda – photo credit Sam Whitton
August was an excellent month for black and white-bellied bustards that were seen darting through the pale grasses. The females of both species strongly resemble each other, but it is easier to tell them apart if you have a good view of the chest and underwing.
A white-bellied bustard – photo credit Sam Whitton
White-bellied females have shorter necks and legs than black-bellied females. Although they are considered common ground-dwelling birds across the Mara, their numbers are declining due to habitat loss.
African wattled lapwings are ever-present, wading in the shallow waters of the Musiara marsh or the flooded edges of streams, roadside ditches and seeps, where they feed on grass seeds and small insects. The males and the females have bright yellow wattle that falls on either side of their beak.
The African wattled lapwing is also known as the Senegal wattled plover – photo credit Sam Whitton
Moving into the woodland areas of the Masai Mara and you are likely to see one of the Mara’s most widespread resident breeders – the fork-tailed drongo – also known as the common drongo. These are amusing little characters as, despite their size, they are particularly aggressive and show no hesitation when stealing from others or mobbing larger birds.
The fork-tailed drongo is an insect-eating bird – photo credit Sam Whitton
They are heavily vocal in the early evenings and mornings, although what you hear may be one of their mimicked calls. Impersonating the alarm or distress calls of others, they trick other birds or small animals into abandoning their prey; once the coast is clear, they swoop in and steal the food.
In the riverine forest along the Mara River, you might glimpse a unique-looking forest-dwelling bird. The Ross’ turaco is a spectacularly purple individual with a bright yellow bill and a vibrant red crest. Interestingly, when we observe most birds, the colour we see is actually a reflection of their feather structure, whereas turacos are some of the only species of avifauna to possess their true hues of green and red.
A Ross’s turaco perched above Governors’ Camp – photo credit Sam Whitton
Our Masai Mara weather and wildlife for August 2024 is by Jess Savage, with supporting imagery by Sam Whitton and Dan Palmer.
