Weather and grasslands

It has been another captivating month in the Mara with exceptional wildlife sightings, including new cubs for the Paradise Pride, a two-day hippo hunt and mating leopards just beyond Governors’ Il Moran Camp.

Late afternoon rain showers continued from mid-September into the first couple of weeks of October, creating a breathtakingly beautiful landscape with bright green grasses and a protrusion of tissue paper flowers (Cycnium tubulosum) that almost seemed to have crept through overnight.

Tissue paper flowers – photo credit Alisa Karstad

The second part of October was relatively dry as the rain tapered off and the dust kicked up. Average midday temperatures hovered around 30 °C, which is pleasant and more comfortable than the hotter months of January and February. Early mornings were typically chilly, with temperatures dropping to about 16°C and a brisk, persistent wind following you on game drives.

Early mornings in the Mara – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Sunrises at approximately 06:20 and sunsets at approximately 18:27 were deep and vivid; this is undoubtedly one of the better months to enjoy a perfect ball of fire suspended just beyond the horizon. The sky was a warm orangey haze as the first rays of light cast across the plains.

An October sunrise – photo credit Dan Palmer 

We received 99.5mm of rainfall for the month, slightly higher than the 82mm we recorded for October last year. Actual “rainy days” were few and far between, with 34mm falling on the 7th, 32mm on the 17th and 15mm on the 20th. The decent rains in September and the first half of October have ensured that the areas surrounding our Mara camps have retained a wash of green across the landscape.

On the 17th, an impressive storm rolled in and, with an immense crack of thunder, dropped its heavy contents directly on the open plains. These random but heavy downpours instigated the growth of fireball and pyjama lilies, bringing an unexpected splash of colour to the grasslands.

Storm clouds rolling in – photo credit Dan Palmer 

The pyjama lily flowers in the rainy season – photo credit Alisa Karstad

The Mara River level was considerably low for October, and some animals, like rhinos and leopards, could cross once again. In the early mornings, we bumped into hippos trotting with haste to get themselves back into the protection of the River, their five-ton bulk glistening in the rising sun.

Photo credit Dan Palmer 

On the plains

Many antelope species have continued to birth their young on Paradise Plains and east of Rhino Ridge, where grass quality has been rejuvenated since the controlled burnings in early June. Warthogs, impalas, and Thomson’s gazelles started calving in late September and continued into early October, and the area resembles a creche of sorts for these animals.

A female herd of impalas – photo credit Dan Palmer 

These open plains echo with the sound of newborns bleating with anxiety; mothers give birth after a seven-month gestation period, and within ten minutes, the fawn should be standing and, after thirty minutes, running to keep up with the mother. If they are late to bounce into action, they fall prey to hyenas and even some of the smaller carnivores like black-backed jackals, who are ever-present and patiently waiting for an opportunity.

Towards the end of the month, Coke’s hartebeests and topis started dropping their young, although the traditional calving time is November and December. The grazers can smell the oncoming rains and time the arrival of their young with the onset of new growth and an abundance of food.

A good number of tiny elephant calves, not more than a few months old, have been spotted in and around the Musiara Marsh, much to the delight of our guests. Trailing behind their mothers and with the added protection of their adolescent siblings and the rest of the family, they spend much of their early days mimicking the behaviour of others.

A baby elephant learns how to use its trunk at about eight months old – photo credit Dan Palmer 

They are full of energy and curiosity, often getting into trouble but quickly being ushered back into the safety unit by the designated babysitters. “It takes a village to raise a child” is an African proverb that could easily apply to the upbringing of a baby elephant. Profoundly emotional and vulnerable to predators, weather changes, and even sunburn, the whole herd, not just the mother, is fiercely protective of the little one.

Baby giraffes are just as adorable and highly susceptible to not making it past their first few months. Much paler in colour than their mothers, they can stand and walk around after less than twenty minutes. Predation on adult giraffes is rare, but attacks on their young from lions and hyenas are common.

Photo credit Dan Palmer 

Giraffes are particularly cautious and will refrain from making impulsive decisions. Now that the Mara River is very shallow, with exposed bedrock in some sections, herds of giraffes have been seen crossing it. A few individual male residents have been hanging out between the tents and in the middle of the lawns at each of our camps.

The Maasai species of giraffe is endangered – photo credit Dan Palmer 

These bulls are somewhat habituated, drawn in for safety and to feed on the giant diospyros (Disporus abisinica), a tall evergreen tree found throughout our camps. They also love the coarse, common sorghum grass that grows up to five meters tall in big patches along the banks of the Mara River.

Off the plains and into the beautiful stretch of riparian woodland surrounding our Mara camps, troops of olive baboons seem more abundant than ever. They have harassed several leopards in the area, including Romi, who eventually took her cub and established a territory elsewhere.

Olive baboons are the most widespread of all baboon species – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Most of the baboons are perched on fallen trees, pulling at leaves, bark, and lichens, but some braver ones forage on the floor for small rodents, seeds, lizards, flowers and ground-dwelling birds. Olive baboons eat almost anything and will find the nutrition they need in any habitat. Their babies are adorable and can be seen riding their mother’s back jockey-style and hanging on for dear life.

A baby baboon is known as an infant – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Just beyond the entrance to Governors’ Camp was an incredible sighting of a serval and her playful kitten. They were playing together, rolling about and leaping in the long grass, swatting each other’s tails and showing heaps of affection for each other. Finding a serval is challenging enough due to their small size and excellent camouflage, so finding a mother and her offspring was a special treat indeed.

Kittens will remain with the mother for a year before becoming independent – photo credit Dan Palmer 

On the 30th of October, a lovely Battersby’s green snake (Philothamnus battersbys) was seen lurking in a tree beside the decked central area at Governors’ Il Moran Camp. This was a pleasant surprise for our guests and staff, who had been oblivious to it until it was pointed out.

The Battersby’s green snake preys on amphibians – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Generally found close to water, the Battersby’s is a medium-sized species with a harmless bite, although they are often killed because many people confuse them with the deadly green mamba. They are high-speed movers, and the fact that we got a good photo is quite lucky!

Big Cats of the Masai Mara

The famous Marsh Pride was present but largely elusive throughout October; at one point, eight days passed without any sightings. According to the tracking data from Kito’s collar, they hunkered down on the east side of Bila Shaka, which is sometimes inaccessible due to the uneven terrain surrounding the watercourse. Rumour has it that Enkerai may have some cubs. This will be her first litter although as an inexperienced first-time mum, she may lose them.

Naserian of the Marsh Pride – photo credit Dan Palmer 

The pride has been busy with a sizeable herd of buffalos that moved from the drier grasslands into the verdant Musiara Marsh area and its surroundings, keeping the lions in their territory. The shift in weather conditions also lured many topis down from Topi Plains into the Marsh in their quest for better grass.

Kaleo held on to her remaining cub (a male), and we saw her slowly introduce it to the rest of the pride during October. We were doubtful it would survive due to a temporary paralysation in the back legs that lasted about three weeks, but Kaleo proved us wrong. She put all her energies into nurturing and protecting him, often spending time with Oleku, who has become a great babysitter and quite tolerant of the little one.

Kaleo covered in mud after feeding on a hippo – photo credit Dan Palmer 

The highlight of the month was a two-day operation carried out by the Paradise Pride. They expertly tracked, hunted, and ambushed a huge hippo, finally taking it down in the early morning hours on October 19th.

The Paradise Pride with their buffalo kill – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Efficient as ever, they began casually following their target, deliberately showing little interest for many hours but keeping within close range at all times. The hippo let its guard down, waded into a shallow pool not far from the Main Crossing point on the Mara River and became surrounded by the pride.

Photo credit Dan Palmer

In complete panic, the hippo made a final attempt at survival, dashing out of the water but ultimately could not escape; the perfect ambush. This kill and its lead-up were remarkable, leaving our guests speechless. It was also an excellent opportunity to catch the four Bila Shaka boys, Kiok, Chongo, Kibogoyo and Koshoke.

Kibogoyo is one of the Bila Shaka males – photo credit Dan Palmer 

On the 23rd of October, a low-lying mist covered Paradise Plains, and as it lifted, one of the females and her three young cubs appeared. We spent a little while watching as Mum carried each of them in turns.

Paradise Pride female with her young cubs – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Sightings of the Topi Pride sub-males have been good, with several buffalos being fought to the ground and briefly interacting with the Rekero Boys, Kijana and Olchore. They are getting older and stronger, and it seems they are slowly pushing towards Marsh pride territory. Meanwhile, the River Pride have been seen close enough to Little Governors’ Camp on the Mara Triangle side.

A young Topi Pride male – photo credit Dan Palmer 

October was definitely a month to see leopards in our corner of the Masai Mara National Reserve. The young male, Olopono, has been hanging out around the Marsh, resting on fallen trees, allowing for the ultimate shot. Incredibly beautiful and immensely strong, he is the perfect leopard specimen. Hailing from the conservancies, he appears to be currently mapping out a territory in the Reserve.

Olopono – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Two mating leopards were seen just outside the entrance to Little Governors’ Camp on the Reserve side; unfortunately, we could not get a clear ID, although it is possible that Olopono was one of them.

Olopono in the Musiara Marsh – photo credit Dan Palmer 

At the beginning of the month, we found Bella2 at the Double Crossing. Bella2 is the daughter of another famous leopard, the late Bahati, who was very successful at raising cubs. Going further down the line of descent, Bahati’s mother was Olive, and her grandmother was Bella of the Big Cat Diary days, a long-running nature documentary filmed by Jonathan and Angela Scott. Governors’ Camp has been the top choice for renowned filmmakers over many decades.

Bella2 at the Double Crossing – photo credit Dan Palmer

Birds of the Masai Mara

Birding highlights included a juvenile martial eagle swallowing the remains of what appeared to be a baby monitor lizard. Martial eagles depend on their parents for food for the first eight months of life and remain in the family territory until they are about a year old.

Juvenile martials are paler than adults – photo credit Dan Palmer

Grey crowned cranes are active in the Musiara Marsh, where the reeds and saturated wetlands provide the ideal nesting conditions. A monogamous species that mate for life, they are most often seen in pairs or as part of larger groups, foraging for food items that fall into their omnivorous diet.

Grey crowned cranes – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Found in a range of habitats across East Africa and distinctly coloured, superb starlings are often some of the first birds you will notice on your safari. Migratory species, including martins and barn swallows, benefited this month as herds of elephants disturbed the insects in the long grasses, creating ample feeding opportunities.

Superb starlings are territorial – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Woodland kingfishers, with their bright red beaks and electric-blue backs, are often found perched high up in the canopy over a river or stream. From here, they feed primarily on insects, fruits, small snakes, frogs, and lizards, and despite their name, only a little fish.

The stunning woodland kingfisher lives in dry woodlands – photo credit Dan Palmer 

Our Masai Mara weather and wildlife for October 2024 is by Jess Savage, with supporting imagery by Dan Palmer. To book a safari with us, please get in touch at info@governorscamp.com