July is one of the driest months in our calendar, setting the stage for Migration Season, when tens of thousands of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles begin entering the Masai Mara, having trekked up from Tanzania’s Serengeti.
The landscape was still vibrantly green as the rains tapered off towards the end of June, with crisp, clear mornings and stunning sunrises best enjoyed from a hot air balloon.
Aerial view of the Mara River – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Some light and scattered showers were received on the 3rd (12mm), followed by a dry spell lasting about a week. Mid-month brought an extension of mild rainfall, with 27mm recorded across several days. Afternoons were often overcast, with occasional shafts of sunlight breaking through the cloud cover.
July skies – photo credit Jess McIlwain
The sudden drop in rainfall triggered a remarkable transformation of the landscape, and almost overnight, the Mara offered ideal conditions for wildlife viewing. Skies remained mostly sunny and temperatures mild – perfect for game drives – with daytime highs between 25°C and 28°C, and cooler mornings and evenings ranging from 11°C to 15°C.
A perfect day for game viewing – photo credit Jess McIlwain
The Mara River maintained a low and consistent level, flowing slowly and steadily, allowing not only migratory herds to cross but also cheetahs, leopards, and rhinos.
The Mara River level at the beginning of July – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Sandbanks and beaches are nicely exposed, with up to 40 hippos and the occasional crocodile sunbathing closer to the River’s edge. Nile monitor lizards are a nesting crocodile’s worst enemy; in fact, they are known to be the “most destructive predator” concerning crocodile eggs.
Photo credit Jess McIlwain
Occasionally, we witness monitor lizards cooperating to steal eggs; one will distract or lure a female crocodile away while the other raids the nest. Although monitor lizards don’t directly control crocodile populations, they do play a role in regulating them by preying on their eggs.
In early July, the Great Migration herds began gathering in the northern Serengeti before making their way toward the Sand River, which is one of the traditional entry points into the Maasai Mara. On 8th July, the season’s first major river crossing was recorded at the “mchanga mchanga” site along the Sand River.
Just a few days later, the first Mara River crossing were recorded as the herds pushed on. Crossings from the Greater Mara into the Mara Triangle have mostly taken place at the U-Crossing point, the most notable one being on the 20th of July.
Wildebeests crossing the Mara River – photo credit Saidi Juma
Throughout July, Marsh Pride lionesses Kito, Lola, Enkerai, Naserian, and Nusurika spent much of their time well east of Bila Shaka. GPS tracking data from Kito, who wears a collar, revealed a clear preference for the areas around Rhino Ridge and the southern stretches of this northern part of the Reserve.
Kitos’ July tracking data is courtesy of Mara Predator Conservation Programme
Kaleo was the only female to remain in Marsh territory throughout July, frequently seen in the company of Topi coalition males Ukingo (M1), Moja Moja (M3), and Nzuri (M6). She has mated with each of them, on and off, and may be staying close to strengthen her bond with the coalition – possibly in preparation for the arrival of cubs.
Kaleo – photo credit Saidi Juma
Kaleo is fully integrated with the Topi Males, perhaps more so than the other females. We would like to see Kaleo with some new cubs, having sadly lost previous litters. Her most recent cubs were born in August last year – three in total – but the last one perished a few months later in November.
In mid-May, several of our guides reported seeing Lola with two tiny cubs through their binoculars at Bila Shaka. She had wisely chosen a dense patch of thicket surrounded by boggy terrain, still saturated from the April and May rains, making it inaccessible to vehicles and offering her a secluded space to raise her cubs. Unfortunately, the fate of those cubs remains uncertain; a sighting of Lola mating with Ukingo on 22nd June strongly suggests she may have lost them.
Bila Shaka, meaning “without a doubt” in Kiswahili, is a seasonal watercourse that runs nearly parallel to the Musiara Airstrip and the Governors’ Camp access road. The name stems from the area’s reputation for lion sightings, and historically, it has always been the preferred birthing ground for the Marsh Pride due to its privacy and dense bush. However, in recent years, the orange-leafed croton thicket has been in decline, primarily due to pressure from large game species, such as elephants and buffalo, that frequent the area.
Enkerai – photo credit Saidi Juma
The Topi Boys continue to keep things interesting for all who follow their antics. Despite his strikingly handsome and seemingly innocent appearance (watch video), Nzuri (M6) has earned a reputation for stirring tension within the coalition, often targeting Vuli (M5), who appears to be struggling for full acceptance among his brothers.
Nzuri – photo credit Saidi Juma
On 20th July, our guides witnessed yet another internal disagreement, with Nzuri and Djodjo turning on Vuli and ultimately chasing him away. Djodjo finally collapsed, panting heavily, clearly worn out from all the effort (watch video). It took a few days before Vuli built up the courage to rejoin the group, highlighting the complex nature of large coalitions like this.
Djodjo – photo credit Saidi Juma
Moja Moja (M3), meanwhile, has shown less interest in coalition conflicts and more in mating and hunting. On 12th July, he was found in what looked like a self-induced food coma, rolling around beside the remains of a zebra he had taken down himself and an entire topi he had casually stolen from hyenas (watch video).
Moja Moja – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Kiongozi, the youngest of this coalition, is now entering his sub-adult stage as he approaches three years old. Despite the age gap between him and the others, Kiongozi appears to have no trouble fitting in and navigates the coalition dynamics with quiet confidence. On the 23rd July, Kiongozi, which means “Leader”, waited patiently beside a jackal as Moja Moja cleaned up the remains of a zebra (watch video).
Kiongozi is now a young sub-adult – photo credit Dan Palmer
The three cheetah brothers Osiligi (Hope), Olopono (Notch), and Oldanyet (He Who Breaks Through) have been an impressive force, having firmly established their reign across the entire Mara Triangle and the borderlands connecting the Masai Mara National Reserve and the Serengeti.
Siligi’s Boys in the Mara Triangle – photo credit Jess McIlwain
In late July, it became apparent that they had stranded themselves in the Reserve after crossing over from the Mara Triangle. We saw them consistently over a week, as they tried to find a suitable and safe point to cross the Mara River (watch video)
Siligi’s Boys looking for a way out of the Reserve – photo credit Saidi Juma
Osiligi leads the coalition’s movements and marking, often deciding when to walk or rest and keeping small kills to himself. Olopono, identified by his notched ear, consistently follows Osiligi’s lead, reinforcing marks and territory. Meanwhile, Oldanyet strives to prove his worth, often lagging but strengthening the group’s bonds through grooming and loyalty. Thank you to the Mara-Meru Cheetah Programme for the info.
Oldanyet – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Osiligi – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Other cheetah sightings of note included ten-year-old Neema, who is the sister of another well-known cheetah, Nashipai. Originally from Mara North, Neema is one of the oldest female cheetahs in the Masai Mara. Despite her age, she remains in excellent shape (watch video). Around this time of year, she is frequently spotted in the Reserve, drawn by the increased availability of prey that accompanies the Great Migration.
Neema at the Double Crossing area – photo credit Saidi Juma
Oloti, which means “young boy” in Maa, is a solitary male that mostly roams the Reserve but occasionally appears in the conservancies, the Mara Triangle, and even the northern Serengeti. We kept up with him one morning as he searched hard for his prey. Thanks to Cheetah Enthusiast for the IDs.
Oloti – photo credit Dan Palmer
We were treated to Faulu, the third and last daughter of the legendary leopardess, Fig. Faulu, which means “successful”, was spotted making her way through the thick grasses at the “Saning’o” area, past the Double-Crossing. Also seen were Luluka and her son, Olomunyak, walking along the road.
Faulu – photo credit Dan Palmer
Luluka and cub – photo credit Dan Palmer
While the expansive plains of the Mara are famed for dramatic predator-prey interactions and the Great Migration, the observant eye will discover a world of vibrant avian wonders. One such beauty is the lilac-breasted roller (Coracias caudatus), often called the “rainbow roller,” for its beautiful array of colours that make it one of Africa’s most famous birds.
A lilac-breasted roller – photo credit Jess McIlwain
Kenya is particularly abundant in lilac-breasted rollers, boasting the highest population of these birds found anywhere in the world. They primarily prey on a diverse range of arthropods and small vertebrates, including grasshoppers, beetles, scorpions, and even small lizards or rodents. Their hunting strategy is a classic “perch-and-swoop” method: they patiently survey from an elevated spot, such as a dead tree or termite mound, then swiftly swoop down to capture their prey.
They are aerial acrobats; during their courtship displays, males perform “rolling” flights, ascending high before diving with an impressive side-to-side motion, showcasing their agility and vigour – giving the species its name.
A lilac-breasted roller – photo credit Dan Palmer
Being a monogamous species, they mate for life, aggressively defending their nesting and feeding territories. They are cavity-nesting birds, preferring natural tree holes or abandoned nests. In Kenya, their breeding season coincides with the rainy season. This ensures a surge in their insect and small vertebrate prey, providing ample food for both parents and the chicks.
Their frequent presence along roads and paths within protected areas makes them highly visible from our game drive vehicles, presenting ample opportunities for guests to snap a shot of them.
Another of the dazzling bird species commonly found in the area’s waterways is the malachite kingfisher (Corythornis cristatus). Measuring a mere 12-14 centimetres (around 5 inches), this tiny bird has an electric-blue upper body which contrasts with its rich reddish-orange underparts.
True to their name, malachite kingfishers are expert anglers. They are intimately tied to aquatic environments, preferring slow-moving, clean water bodies rich with reeds, papyrus, and other fringing vegetation. In the Masai Mara, this means they are commonly found along the banks of the Mara River and its various tributaries, as well as around any small ponds or marshy areas, such as the Musiara Marsh.
A malachite kingfisher perches above the Mara River – photo credit Jess McIlwain
You’ll often spot them perched low on a reed or a branch overhanging the water. From these vantage points, they patiently scan the waters below. With keen eyesight, they can account for light refraction in the water, accurately judging the depth of their unsuspecting prey. Once a small fish, aquatic insect, or a tadpole is spotted, the kingfisher plunges headfirst into the water with astonishing speed, emerging moments later with its catch. Their success rate is remarkably high, often approaching 90%. Larger prey might be stunned with a quick battering before being swallowed whole.
A malachite kingfisher – photo credit Simon Odhiambo
Their nests are fascinating, consisting of burrows up to a meter deep, excavated into sandy riverbanks or muddy embankments. Here, the female lays 3 to 6 white eggs, which both parents take turns incubating for approximately two weeks. The chicks fledge in about three weeks, becoming independent shortly after. Interestingly, the accumulating waste in their unlined nests helps deter predators!
The grey crowned crane (Balearica regulorum), easily recognised by its distinctive golden feather crown, is a truly iconic resident of the Masai Mara. Unlike other crane species, it possesses a unique, long hind toe that allows it to grasp branches and roost in trees – a rare adaptation within its family. These omnivorous birds forage for a varied diet of insects, seeds, and small vertebrates, often stomping their feet to flush out prey.
Generally observed in pairs or small family units, they are renowned for their elaborate courtship dances, which involve head-bobbing, bowing, and jumping, and serve to strengthen their monogamous pair bonds. They build large platform nests in wetlands, and their chicks are precocial, meaning they can walk shortly after hatching.
A pair of grey crowned cranes – photo credit Jess McIlwain
The species is classified as “Endangered” on the IUCN Red List; a designation that underscores its precarious status. Alarmingly, it is considered the world’s fastest declining crane species, with its population plummeting from an estimated 100,000 to just 50,000 individuals over the last two decades. Their population has declined due to extensive habitat loss, particularly the draining of wetlands, illegal trade, and conflict with farmers over perceived crop damage.
A grey crowned crane – photo credit Simon Odhiambo
A particularly tragic vulnerability is their susceptibility to electrocution from power lines, a direct consequence of their tree-roosting behaviour, which is not seen in other cranes. The Masai Mara serves as a vital sanctuary for these vulnerable birds, offering crucial wetland and grassland habitats where they can be observed, particularly during the wet season when replenished water sources create optimal conditions for foraging and breeding.
By Jess Savage. If you’d like to learn more about a July safari, please visit the link below.
A SAFARI IN JULY
